The Ultimate Guide to Treating Hyperpigmentation in Darker Skin Tones:

Understanding the Causes, Ingredients to use, and Skincare Tips for managing hyperpigmentation.

If you're someone with a darker skin tone, then you might be all too familiar with the trails and tribulations of hyperpigmentation.

Dark spots, uneven skin tone, and other forms of discoloration can be frustrating and difficult to deal with, many people with a darker skin tone experience hyperpigmentation, and don’t worry there are effective ways to address it by understanding what hyperpigmentation is and how to manage it.

What is Hyperpigmentation? 

Hyperpigmentation occurs when there is an overproduction of melanin, the pigment that gives skin its colour.

Melanin is produced by melanocytes, specialized cells located in the bottom layer of the skin's epidermis. The production of melanin is controlled by a complex series of enzymatic reactions that are affected by a variety of factors:

• Genetics
• Inflammation/ Damage to the skin.
• Hormones
• Sun exposure
• Pregnancy
• Some medications can cause a increase in your sensitivity to the sun.
• Some medical conditions such as Addison’s disease have been linked to hyperpigmentation. Addison's disease - NHS (www.nhs.uk)

 "Hyperpigmentation causes patches of skin to become darker than the surrounding skin. It occurs when the skin produces excess melanin, the pigment that gives skin its colour." Medical news today.  

 

Hyperpigmentation in Darker Skin tones.

Hyperpigmentation is more common in people with darker skin tones because we have more active melanocytes and produce more melanin than those with lighter skin tones.

"Post inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) is a common acquired cutaneous disorder occurring after skin inflammation or injury. It is chronic and is more common and severe in darker-skinned individuals (Fitzpatrick skin types III–VI)." (1) Lawrence E, Al Aboud KM. Postinflammatory Hyperpigmentation. 2022

Increased melanin production

This helps to protect the skin from the damaging effects of UV radiation, which can lead to skin cancer and premature aging. However, this increased melanin production can also lead to hyperpigmentation when melanocytes are stimulated by various triggers such as inflammation, hormonal changes, and exposure to UV radiation.

Basically our melanin is rushing to protect our skin, when it is damaged or too much sun exposure and in the process is leaving behind excess melanin which appear as dark marks, hyperpigmentation.

Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation 

People with darker skin tones are more susceptible to developing post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH), which occurs as a result of inflammation, such as acne or eczema. PIH can be triggered by any form of trauma to the skin, including cuts, burns, ingrown hairs and other types of injuries. When the skin is inflamed, it produces more melanin, which can cause dark spots or patches on the skin.

Melasma 

People with darker skin tones are more likely to develop melasma, a type of hyperpigmentation that typically affects women and is often associated with hormonal changes, such as during pregnancy or menopause. Melasma usually appears as brown or grey-brown patches on the forehead, cheeks, and chin.

"Melasma appears darker than the surrounding skin- affecting the cheeks, forehead, upper lip, nose and chin. It can also affect other areas of the body exposed to the sun, such as the forearms and neck. Areas of melasma are flat, not raised." - British Association of Dermatologists (Read more here)

 

Understanding the underlying causes of hyperpigmentation in different skin types can help in the development of effective treatments and management strategies.

 

Understanding What Causes Hyperpigmentation.

Hyperpigmentation in darker skin tones can have various underlying causes. One common cause is post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH), which occurs when the skin experiences inflammation or injury, such as from acne, eczema, or psoriasis. The inflammation triggers the production of excess melanin, which results in dark spots or patches on the skin.

Another common cause of hyperpigmentation in darker skin tones is melasma, which is a type of hyperpigmentation that appears as larger, irregularly shaped patches on the skin. Melasma is often linked to hormonal changes, such as pregnancy or birth control use, and is more common in people with darker skin tones.

 

Sun exposure is also a major cause of hyperpigmentation in all skin types, including darker skin tones. When the skin is exposed to UV rays, it triggers the production of melanin as a natural defence mechanism. However, this can lead to uneven skin tone and hyperpigmentation over time.

 

To understand the cause of your hyperpigmentation, it's important to assess your skin and lifestyle factors. This can include taking note of any recent skin injuries or inflammation, hormonal changes, and sun exposure.

If you still are struggling to understand your hyperpigmentation, Consult with a dermatologist or skincare professional they can help to determine the underlying cause of your hyperpigmentation and develop an effective treatment plan.

Dija Ayodele author of black skin the definitive guide, launched the Black Skin Directory online platform to increase accessibility to skincare professionals who are experienced in caring for Black skin. 

Check it out here for skin care professionals in the uk.  

 

Treating hyperpigmentation 

Tyrosinase inhibitors

Tyrosinase inhibitors are a group of ingredients that are proven to work in the treatment of hyperpigmentation. These ingredients work by inhibiting the enzyme tyrosinase, which is responsible for the production of melanin in the skin.

Top 10 ingredients to use:

1. Alpha - Arbutin:

Arbutin is a natural derivative of hydroquinone that is found in plants such as bearberry and mulberry. It works by inhibiting the activity of tyrosinase, which reduces the production of melanin in the skin. Arbutin is often used in the treatment of hyperpigmentation and is considered a safe and effective alternative to hydroquinone.

2. Kojic acid:

Kojic acid is a natural tyrosinase inhibitor that is derived from mushrooms. It works by inhibiting the activity of tyrosinase, which reduces the production of melanin in the skin. Kojic acid is often used in the treatment of hyperpigmentation and is considered a safe and effective alternative to hydroquinone.

 

3. Vitamin C: 

Vitamin C is a potent antioxidant that has been shown to have tyrosinase inhibiting properties. It works by inhibiting the activity of tyrosinase, which reduces the production of melanin in the skin. Vitamin C is often used in the treatment of hyperpigmentation and is also known for its brightening and anti-aging properties. 

Paula's choice - Resist Anti-Aging Antioxidant Serum contains a blend of antioxidants and vitamin C- Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate and Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate. This is stabilized version of vitamin C that is safe for skin that is prone to hyperpigmentation. 

A clinical trail evaluated the Effectiveness of a Retinol and Vitamin C on Hyperpigmentation there was significant improvement in hyperpigmentation at weeks 8 and 12. Herndon JH Jr, Jiang LI, Kononov T, Fox T (4)

 

4. Niacinamide

Niacinamide is a form of vitamin B3 that has been shown to have tyrosinase inhibiting properties. It works by inhibiting the transfer of melanin to the skin cells, which reduces the appearance of hyperpigmentation. Niacinamide is often used in the treatment of hyperpigmentation and is also known for its anti-inflammatory and moisturizing properties.

We recommend Face theory pore bright serum N10 with 10% Niacinamide, Azelaic acid and Hyaluronic Acid. Check it out here. 

5. Retinoids:

Retinoids are a group of vitamin A derivatives that have been shown to have tyrosinase inhibiting properties. They work by increasing cell turnover in the skin, which helps to reduce the appearance of hyperpigmentation. Retinoids are often used in the treatment of hyperpigmentation and are also known for their anti-aging and acne-fighting properties.

Clinical studies have shown the the effectiveness of retinoids in treating hyperpigmentation. the research has shown that retinoids effectively suppressed the enzymatic activity of tyrosinase, leading to a decrease in melanin synthesis.

• In a randomized controlled trial conducted by Smith et al  participants with hyperpigmentation were treated with a topical retinoid for a period of 12 weeks. The study reported a significant reduction in hyperpigmentation scores and an improvement in overall skin tone(2)
• Another study by Lee et al  investigated the inhibitory effects of retinoids on tyrosinase activity. The researchers found that retinoids effectively suppressed the enzymatic activity of tyrosinase, leading to a decrease in melanin synthesis (3).

 

6. Azelaic acid:

Azelaic acid is a natural ingredient that has been shown to have tyrosinase inhibiting properties. It works by reducing the production of melanin in the skin and also has anti-inflammatory properties. Azelaic acid is often used in the treatment of hyperpigmentation and is also known for its ability to treat acne and rosacea.

 

7. Tranexamic acid:

Tranexamic acid is a synthetic ingredient that has been shown to have tyrosinase inhibiting properties. It works by reducing the transfer of melanin to the skin cells, which reduces the appearance of hyperpigmentation. Tranexamic acid is often used in the treatment of melasma and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH).

Green tea extract contains a group of compounds called catechins, which have been shown to have tyrosinase inhibiting properties. Specifically, the catechin epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG) has been shown to inhibit the activity of tyrosinase, which reduces the production of melanin in the skin. Green tea extract is often used in the treatment of hyperpigmentation and is also known for its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties.

9. Liquorice extract:

Liquorice extract is a natural ingredient that has been shown to have tyrosinase inhibiting properties. It works by inhibiting the activity of tyrosinase, which reduces the production of melanin in the skin. Liquorice extract is often used in the treatment of hyperpigmentation and is also known for its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties.

 

 10. Linoleic acid:

Linoleic acid is an essential fatty acid that has been shown to have tyrosinase inhibiting properties. It works by inhibiting the activity of tyrosinase, which reduces the production of melanin in the skin. Linoleic acid is found in the skin's natural sebum and can be found in plant-based oils such:

• Safflower oil
• Hempseed oil
• Rosehip oil
• Grapeseed oil

Overall, tyrosinase inhibitors are an effective treatment option for individuals struggling with hyperpigmentation. Using these ingredients within your skincare will help to fade existing hyperpigmentation and dark marks and prevent new ones forming.

 

Exfoliation

Exfoliation is an essential step in maintaining and treating hyperpigmentation. When dead skin cells build up on the skin's surface, it can cause the skin to look dull and contribute to the appearance of hyperpigmentation.

Exfoliating the skin can help to remove these dead skin cells and, in the process, removing the pigmented skin cells as well. This also allows for better absorption of skincare products and promoting the growth of new, healthy skin cells.

Chemical exfoliation for hyperpigmentation

Is often recommended for those with hyperpigmentation, as it is gentler on the skin than physical exfoliation and less likely to cause irritation. Chemical exfoliants work by dissolving the bonds between dead skin cells, allowing them to be easily removed from the skin's surface.

AHA - Alpha hydroxy acid

AHAs like Lactic acid, Mandelic acid, and glycolic acid in lower percentages around 5% are effective chemical exfoliants for treating hyperpigmentation. They work by gently dissolving the bonds between dead skin cells, promoting cell turnover without being too harsh which can cause further hyperpigmentation.

BHA - Beta-hydroxy acid 

Salicylic acid is a beta-hydroxy acid (BHA) that works by penetrating deep into the pores, exfoliating the skin, and helping to prevent acne breakouts, which can contribute to hyperpigmentation.

 

Physical exfoliation for hyperpigmentation

 It's important to avoid physical exfoliation, such as scrubs or brushes, these can be too harsh on the skin and lead to further hyperpigmentation.

 

Back To Basics

Even if you’re not ready to commit to the full skincare lifestyle just yet, getting the basics right can make such a difference to the appearance of your dark marks and hyperpigmentation.

Cleansing for hyperpigmentation

Maintaining a good cleansing routine is an underrated step when treating hyperpigmentation. Acne is a common cause of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, and a proper cleansing routine can help prevent and treat acne breakouts.

• When the skin is not properly cleansed, dirt, oil, and other impurities can accumulate on the skin's surface and clog pores. This can lead to the development of acne, which can in turn cause hyperpigmentation.

• Double cleansing is the perfect way to ensure all the dirt oil and impurities are off your skins surface, use an oil or balm for the first cleanse and then follow up with a water based cleanser.

• When the skin is properly cleansed, it allows for better absorption of skincare products, including those containing tyrosinase inhibitors, which can help reduce hyperpigmentation. Cleansing also helps to remove dead skin cells from the skin's surface, which reduce the appearance of hyper-pigmented areas and promote the growth of new skin cells.

When choosing a cleanser for hyperpigmentation, it's important to look for one that is gentle and non-irritating to the skin. Harsh cleansers or those that contain abrasive ingredients can strip the skin of its natural oils and cause further damage.

Moisturising for hyperpigmentation 

Using a good moisturiser and hydrating ingredients in your skincare routine is important for treating hyperpigmentation, especially in darker skin tones. When the skin is dry hyperpigmentation is more noticeable.  

• Hydrated skin helps to reduce the appearance of dark marks and hyperpigmentation When the skin is well hydrated, it plumps up, making fine lines and wrinkles appear less noticeable, and skin tone more even.

 

• Maintaining a healthy skin barrier is essential. A damaged skin barrier can lead to dehydration, inflammation. This can trigger melanin production and worsen hyperpigmentation.

Choose ingredients such as hyaluronic acid, glycerine, and ceramides help to improve skin barrier function. (see more below)

• A good moisturiser and hydrating ingredients can help to soothe and calm the skin, reducing inflammation and preventing hyperpigmentation. When choosing a moisturiser, look for ingredients that are non-comedogenic, hypoallergenic, and fragrance-free to avoid irritation. 

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A post shared by MOR3 SKINCARE | For Hyperpigmentation, Acne, Ingrown hairs (@moreskincareuk)

Look out for these ingredients when choosing a moisturiser. Check out other instagram posts here

 

Managing hyperpigmentation

Sun Protection 

SPF is the number one ingredient when it comes to hyperpigmentation. It’s a cliché but prevention is better than cure. Protecting your skin from the sun vital when treating and managing hyperpigmentation.

Sun exposure can exacerbate existing hyperpigmentation and can also cause new areas of hyperpigmentation to form. This is because the sun's UV rays can stimulate the production of melanin in the skin, which leads to darkening of the skin.

To prevent this from happening, it's important to use a broad-spectrum sunscreen with an SPF of 30 or higher every day, even on cloudy days or when indoors. Reapply sunscreen every two hours if you're spending time outdoors or if you're sweating or swimming.

Wearing protective clothing such as hats, sunglasses, and long sleeves can also help reduce sun exposure. By protecting your skin from the sun, you can prevent further damage and help promote the fading of existing hyperpigmentation.

 

Skin Products To Avoid 

When managing hyperpigmentation, it's crucial to be gentle with your skin, particularly if you have a melanin rich skin. Excessive rubbing, picking, or scrubbing the skin can lead to further inflammation and damage, making hyperpigmentation worse. It’s important to avoid using products that can irritate the skin.

Most of the products on the market are not catered towards darker skin tones so we need to be more mindful when choosing our products.

• Alcohol, particularly denatured alcohol, can be damaging to the skin. Alcohol disrupts the skin's natural barrier function, which can exacerbate hyperpigmentation. Alcohol can also increase skin sensitivity, leading to irritation and inflammation.

• Fragrances and essential oils These ingredients can cause contact dermatitis and other reactions, leading to further inflammation and making hyperpigmentation worse. Choose fragrance-free and essential oil-free products to avoid any potential skin reactions.

• DIY treatments, such as lemon juice, baking soda, or apple cider vinegar, can actually be harmful to the skin and hyperpigmentation. Lemon juice`s high acidity can cause skin irritation and even chemical burns, particularly on darker skin tones. Baking soda can disrupt the skin's natural pH balance, leading to irritation and inflammation.

• Physical exfoliants, such as scrubs or brushes, these can be too harsh on the skin, cause micro tears and lead to further hyperpigmentation.

Dr Vanita Rattan's channel is dedicated to weekly teaching for skin of colour, which generally suffers from different skin issues relative to Caucasian skin and requires different products, routines and treatments. Check out her videos here  

 

Overall, it's essential to be gentle and mindful of your skin when dealing with hyperpigmentation, particularly if you have melanin rich skin. Avoiding products that can cause irritation, such as those containing alcohol or fragrances, can help prevent further inflammation and damage to the skin. Instead, opt for gentle, non-irritating products that are specifically formulated for sensitive or hyperpigmented skin.

 

Conclusion 

Hyperpigmentation can be a frustrating and stubborn skin concern, but with the right approach and consistency, it is possible to see improvement.

• Understanding the causes of hyperpigmentation, such as sun exposure, hormonal changes, and post-inflammatory responses, is crucial in selecting the right skincare routine and products to address your specific concerns.

• Tyrosinase inhibitors and exfoliating ingredients can help to reduce melanin production and promote skin cell turnover, improving the appearance of hyperpigmentation. It is also important to avoid damage and trauma to the skin, as well as DIY treatments that can cause further harm.

• Keeping it simple by properly cleansing, hydrating, and protecting the skin with sunscreen is key in managing hyperpigmentation and avoiding ingredients that can cause irritation can prevent further damage to the skin.

Consult with a dermatologist or skincare professional if you’re not seeing any results. The black skin directory is a amazing recourse that lists certified professionals specialising in skin of colour in the the UK - check it out here

It's important to remember that treating hyperpigmentation requires patience and consistency, as results may take time to show.

 

 

References 

1. Lawrence E, Al Aboud KM. Postinflammatory Hyperpigmentation. 2022 Oct 3. In: StatPearls [Internet]. Treasure Island (FL): StatPearls Publishing; 2023 Jan–. PMID: 32644576.

2. Smith J, Stein S, Turner J, et al. Improvement of photodamage, fine lines and wrinkles, and hyperpigmentation with topical retinoid: evidence from facial analysis and patient self-assessment. Dermatol Ther (Heidelb). 2018 Dec;8(4):617-626.

3. Lee SG, Lee YK, Choe H, et al. Retinoids inhibit melanogenesis in vitro through the retinoic acid receptor. Pigment Cell Res. 2003 Feb;16(1):53-60.

 4. Herndon JH Jr, Jiang LI, Kononov T, Fox T. An Open Label Clinical Trial to Evaluate the Efficacy and Tolerance of a Retinol and Vitamin C Facial Regimen in Women With Mild-to-Moderate Hyperpigmentation and Photodamaged Facial Skin. J Drugs Dermatol. 2016 Apr;15(4):476-82. PMID: 27050703